I
celand is one of the few countries in the world without a single McDonald’s restaurant. In Reykjavik itself, however, you will find a few fast-food outlets from under the KFC/Taco Bell sign.
What is worth trying while in Iceland? In which restaurants can you try traditional Icelandic dishes? Where do Icelanders go for dinner? How much can a dinner in Iceland cost? You will read about all this below….
Traditional Icelandic cuisine: what should you try
Iceland offers quite a lot of dishes that cannot be tasted elsewhere in the world. Traditional Icelandic folk cuisine is a simple fisherman’s cuisine, which is based primarily on fish that is popular on the island, mostly dried or pickled in the simplest way in these conditions, that is, by burying it in the ground. Seal and whale meat was also once popular, but today – especially the former – it is rather rare.
Many of these local specialties – often in ‘modernized’ versions – are still available in various restaurants, bars and cafes. Many of them have a really specific flavor and intense aroma. If you’re traveling in a larger group, it’s worth ordering one or two portions to share. Especially since some of these dishes are small snacks with a very intense flavor (a horse in a row to whoever eats a whole portion of pickled shark!), so they don’t have to cost too much, and the impressions can leave unforgettable.
The queen of Icelandic menus, on the other hand, is lamb. There are more sheep than people in Iceland today, so it’s no surprise that the staple of the Icelanders’ meat diet is lamb. Also, in the best restaurants, it is lamb that is usually one of the best, most delicious dishes. However, lamb is certainly not very ‘exotic’, and the culinary adventure awaits completely elsewhere – in the slowly receding into oblivion ‘bizarre’ traditional cuisine.
The most popular traditional Icelandic dishes
If you want to try dishes of traditional Icelandic folk cuisine, look for the following items on the menu:
- Þorramatur (or Thorramatur)
A plate of traditional snacks. Usually a selection of small portions of various dishes, served with rice bread. The price depends on the composition and size, but it’s usually a very good option, especially ‘for the first fire’. - Svið
Cooked sheep’s head (without brains and horns, in modern times usually also without eyes…). The meat itself is tender and very tasty, but the “overall” impression from overeating an animal skull – strange, to say the least.
svid – cooked sheep’s head
The best place for this dish is the restaurant Islenski Barinn in downtown Reykjavik – at Ingólfsstræti 1a. A portion of head with potatoes there costs 3750 ISK (about $27; 2023). Many other Icelandic specialties (and, shall we say, “ordinary” dishes) are also available at the same location.
Svid can also often be purchased in the market (head of Kronan): about 1,000 ISK, or about $7 per serving.
- Hákarl
Fermented shark – another dish for the brave. Usually, hakarl is served as several small cubes, often accompanied by a stronger drink.
Hakarl at Cafe Loki
If you really, really like heavily fermented cheeses, then hakarl might taste good to you; if not – well, eat it if only to have another incredible story to tell when you return….
The 6 small cubes cost 1950 ISK ($14), and the 50-ounce Brennivin is an additional 1250 ISK ($9). We recommend combining the two, but only for the sake of adventure – in our opinion, both taste terrible…
- Harðfiskur
Dried fish (usually cod), often served with bread and/or butter. It’s a traditional dish, but very tasty (wow!). The only potential surprise is that the meat is really tough. If you’re familiar with the taste of beef jerky popular in the States, South Africa or Australia, hardfiskur is that kind of beef jerky, only it’s made from cod. A serving at Cafe Loki in Reykjavik is 490 ISK, or about $3.50.
traditionally dried cod
- Gellur
Tongues of cod, usually breaded and deep-fried. Available as an appetizer in some restaurants. - Slátur
A dish that comes in two varieties: blódmör (a type of black pudding) and lifrapylsa (something like our liverwurst). Both are easiest to buy in markets (about 1000-1500 ISK, or $7-11 per kg) or as a sandwich side dish in appetizers. Pudding lovers are sure to appreciate the new taste… - Rúgbrauð
This is simply rye bread, except that once upon a time, traditionally, it was baked directly in the naturally hot ground which gave it a specific taste, smell and texture. A presentation of this traditional baking is worth seeing, for example, at Laugarvatn Fontana (2500 ISK – about $18 per person over 12 years).In stores (e.g., Kronan), rye bread costs about 400-500 ISK ($3) per loaf, but it is baked industrially. In restaurants, such bread is a popular staple of many appetizers.
- Brennivín
Potato schnapps with cumin, similar in taste to aniseed. A single serving in a bar costs about 1,000 ISK ($7); a whole bottle (0.5 l) at Vinbudin – about 8,000 ISK (about $60); the cheapest version in a duty-free store at departures: 1299 ISK ($9) for 0.5 l (plastic bottle, in the store in the departures hall; on ‘arrivals’ it is more expensive).
Top places to try traditional Icelandic dishes
It’s hard to find a restaurant serving all the dishes indicated above, but the largest selection is probably offered by the Islenski Barinn (literally: Icelandic bar) in downtown Reykjavik – on Ingolfsstraeti Street, between Hverfisgata and Laugavegur.
This is a relatively inexpensive place (for Iceland!!!), whose unique specialties are local – or ‘localized’ – dishes – such as the aforementioned svid sheep’s head (3750 ISK – $27) or the reindeer burger (3950 ISK, about $28) or the classic burger (from 2650 ISK, or about $19).
Many guests also come here for unusual “exclusive” hot dogs – with lamb, salmon or crawfish (2000 – 3000 ISK, or $15-20). Also available is grilled whale steak (4250 ISK, about $30) and a wide selection of more ordinary dishes (lamb, fish, salads, vegetarian). You’ll also find a variety of traditional appetizers – puffin, hakarl, dried fish – all for about 2000 ISK ($15) each. A large beer costs 1200-1500 ISK, or about $8-11. Happy hour (usually): 16-18.
Islenski Barinn is a good, but inexpensive restaurant, and if you want to try local specialties, you will find it hard to find better value. It will also be very difficult to match this wide selection of these traditional dishes elsewhere.
Another recommendable place is also the aforementioned (once small, now quite large) cafe-restaurant Cafe Loki right next to Hallgrimskirkja Church. It serves a variety of dishes and snack sets with the aforementioned specialties at prices between 2500 and 3500 ISK ($18-25).
Traditional Icelandic dishes are also served by, among others, restaurant Ingolfsskali on Road 374, near Selfoss, the intimate Bjargarsteinn in Grundarfjordur (overlooking the Kirkjufell mountain) and more expensive restaurants in the capital – such as Kopar and Matur og Drykkur (more about them later in the article).
Eating out – where to go for lunch or dinner
Unfortunately, the popular rule of thumb, “you want to eat cheap – get out of your hotel and eat what the locals eat,” works poorly in Iceland. Simply put, Icelandic wages are much higher than the European average, so the high prices don’t impress locals much. If you want to explore the island, getting to know its culinary advantages, but not ruin your budget, you are facing quite a challenge.
Newest trend: ‘matholl’ food halls in Reykjavik
The latest trend in the restaurant segment is mathölls, known in English as food halls. These are sizable open halls where many different restaurants offer their dishes on separate stands. You could say that they are such ‘street food halls’ – you order your food over the counter, and eat at a public, shared ‘table’ area. This works very well in the Icelandic climate – the prices can be a bit lower (although they rather rarely are), we have a good selection of various dishes, and the whole thing serves conversation and a generally relaxed atmosphere.
For the time being (early 2023) matholls are a specialty of Reykjavik. Although, for example, in Selfoss there is Matholl Mjólkurbúið in a beautiful former dairy building, and in Hveragerdi you will find Mathöll Suðurlands, but these are exceptions. Meanwhile, in Reykjavik itself there are already 6 such places, including perhaps the most popular one, located in a former post office building in the very center of Reykjavik – Pósthús. Other matholls in Iceland’s capital are: Borg29, Grandi, Hlemmur, Hofda and Vera.
Map: Matholls in Reykjavik.
Dining prices at ‘matholls’
Matholls are relatively inexpensive places, but you can’t say that they are cheap. How much does it cost to “dine out” in Iceland? Here are prices for sample main dishes from some of the matholl halls:
- Spaghetti carbonara: 2290 ISK ($16);
- brydja (lamb soup): 2,500 ISK ($18);
- pizza ‘Goodness’: 2690 ISK ($19);
- vege burger with fries and drink: 2690 ISK ($19);
- beef burger: 3,000 ISK ($21);
- fish & chips: 3400 ISK ($24);
- fish dish ‘Plokkfiskur’: 3690 ISK ($26);
- Rib-eye steak: 5390 ISK ($38.5);
Example menus of selected restaurants from different matholls:
Bustling and diverse matholls attract quite a few tourists and locals. They offer quite a wide variety of different dishes under one roof. Well, and they certainly represent a new and rapidly growing trend in Reykjavik’s gastronomy. They are certainly worth a visit while walking around the city.
Inexpensive restaurants around Iceland
If you want to eat not very expensive, but still on the town, you can choose one of the local restaurants operating throughout Iceland. Prices for meals at such places are similar to those at matholls, but as restaurants they (usually) offer a bit more peace and quiet, but at the same time a concentrated, smaller selection of dishes.
I
celand is one of the few countries in the world without a single McDonald’s restaurant. In Reykjavik itself, however, you will find a few fast-food outlets from under the KFC/Taco Bell sign.
Seabaron, Reykjavik
Restaurants with interesting menus and average – for Iceland – prices, you will also find, for example, in Grindavik (Papa’s), Arnarstapi (Arnabaer), Geirseyri (Stúkuhúsið), Husavik (Fish & Chips in the harbor), Akureyri (Akureyri Fish & Chips and Greifinn), Blonduos (B&S Restaurant), or Egilsstadir (Skálinn Diner).
A very interesting place is Fridheimar Restaurant in Reykholt in the Golden Circle. This restaurant is placed directly in a greenhouse and serves primarily dishes based on homegrown tomatoes….
T
he fact that these restaurants are inexpensive, in Icelandic terms, means that a main course here can be ordered for less than $25. Unfortunately, it will usually be not much less…
You’ll also find small restaurants at some campsites and major tourist attractions – such as at Reynisfjara, Dimmuborgir, Skutustadagigar or Stokksnes However, here the value for money can be a bit worse, and the choice of dishes is more limited.
You’ll find quite good restaurants, though usually with a severely limited menu, also by the larger geothermal pools – e.g. Fludir (here it’s worth noting Fish&chips before entering), Geo Sea (Husavik), Vok baths, Myvatn baths or Sky Lagoon A very good restaurant (Lava) also operates in the Blue Lagoon complex, but there really don’t count on cheap snacks….
Relatively good restaurants are also run in some mountain refuges like Hveravellir, Kerlingarfjoll, Hrauneyjar, Volcano Huts or Laugarfell Here, however, even if the quality of the food itself is high, the decor and service tends to be a bit more hostel-like, and the prices – well, still Icelandic (see below for details).
Dining prices in small restaurants
Prices in restaurants are, of course, influenced by many factors. Even a small restaurant, but in a hard-to-reach location, can be more expensive. On the other hand, even a simple dish in a better restaurant can be quite sophisticated, but also expensive (an example would be the aforementioned hot dogs at $13.50 each).
That’s why I’m presenting below some real examples from restaurants in various places in Iceland. I hope this will help you form your own opinion and opinion on the subject.
Restaurant prices at Hveravellir hostel
- seafood soup: $16.50 (2300 ISK);
- cookies (with ham, pepperoni or vege version): $13.50 (1900 ISK) per serving;
- cod dish: $22 (3100 ISK);
- vegetable goulash: $21 (2950 ISK);
- apple cake: $6 (800 ISK);
- coffee, tea, hot chocolate: $3.50 (500 ISK);
Prices at the GeoSea geothermal pool bar in Husavik
- beer 0.5 l: $7 (1000 ISK);
- apple cider 0.5 l: $7 (1000 ISK);
- vodka with juice: $7 (1000 ISK);
- red wine: $10 (1400 ISK);
- mineral water: $2.50 (350 ISK);
- goulash soup: $13 (1790 ISK);
Prices at fish & chips stall in Arnarstapi
- fish&chips: $11 (1500 ISK);
- burger with fries: $11.50 (1600 ISK);
- fish burger with fries: $12 (1700 ISK);
- fries: $6 (800 ISK);
- water: $2 (250 ISK);
- juice: $1 (150 ISK);
Prices at Arnarbaer Restaurant in Arnarstapi
- pizza (delicious!): 1800-2500 ISK ($13-18);
- fish & chips: 2250 ISK ($16);
- 150 g burger with fries: 2700 ISK ($19);
- lobster soup: 2200 ISK ($15.50);
- cake: 1000 ISK ($7);
- 0.5-liter draft beer: 1200 ISK ($8.50);
- a glass of wine: 1400 ISK ($10);
- coffee/tea: 550 ISK ($4);
Prices at KFC Reykjavik
- Twister: $7.50 (1039 ISK);
- Chicken salad: $9 (1289 ISK);
- family bucket for 4 people: $42 (5799 ISK);
Hot dog is good for everything
A typical Icelandic hot dog
Available in most stores at gas stations and in bars and trailers all over the island. For about 500 kr ($3.50) you’ll get a roll with the traditional sausage, mustard and/or ketchup and fresh and/or roasted onions. Other toppings or options are an absolute rarity, except in places like the aforementioned Islenski Barinn, however, where they are about 4 or even 5 times more expensive.
Iconic hot dog stand in down town Reykjavik
Anyway, compared to many European gas stations, the choice of toppings and sauces for hot dogs is very limited in Iceland. Nevertheless, sometimes it is certainly worth reaching for such a quick and cheap snack during the day to gain strength for the next waterfalls, canyons, glaciers and volcanoes.
Best restaurants in Iceland – a true taste of luxury
If you plan to stay in hotels for your entire stay in Iceland (or most of it), be prepared to spend seriously on food as well. Like hotels, good restaurants are also quite expensive in Iceland. And even restaurants that are smaller and cheaper are still much more expensive than the vast majority of even the really good restaurants in other European countries.
Icelandic seafood
The chefs specialize primarily in lamb and seafood dishes. Many such establishments also serve dishes based on organic local ingredients, sometimes even cooked with geothermal heat. Of course, the more exclusive the resort, the higher the restaurant prices.
O
ne of the popular dishes – especially in more expensive restaurants – is crawfish. However, for some reason it is usually called lobster in Iceland (Icelandic: humar, English: lobster). The difference is not great, but certainly interesting.
You will find the most good and interesting restaurants in Iceland in Reykjavik itself. These include Fiskmarkaðurinn, Grillmarkaðurinn, Dill Restaurant, Hereford and the aforementioned Kopar and Matur og Drykkur
famous tomato soup
If you don’t want to experiment too much, a good idea is to dine at restaurants in the Foss Hotel chain. There are quite a few of them on the island and they all keep a high standard.
Prices at the top Icelandic restaurants
Of course, those with a hefty wallet have a wide variety of options available to them in Iceland. Both dishes popular around the world – such as steaks, pasta or lobster – and “endemic” specialties of local cuisine (puffin, pickled shark, whale) are available in very elegant restaurants with charming service and beautiful views.
T
he single Michelin-starred restaurant in Iceland is Dill Restaurant. The price of dinner is 13,900 ISK (about $100) per person, plus wine ($83 per person).
In general, the prices of an ‘ordinary’ main course in such more classy restaurants, oscillate between 5,000 and 7,000 ISK, or between $35 and $50. A dinner dish of lamb can cost $40 or more, of lobster (or crawfish) $70 or more. Dessert is difficult to buy in such places for less than the equivalent of $10. Therefore, a restaurant dinner for $90 per person (plus drinks!) is nothing special in Iceland.
If your budget allows you to do so, it’s definitely worth looking into, for example, Kopar Restaurant – Adventure Menu (a 6-course meal composed by the Chef here costs 11,500 ISK ($82), and with professionally selected wine round 20,000 ISK (about $145). Fish, vegan and other menus are also available.
A similar concept (6-course meals composed in advance) is also offered at Matur og Drykkur (literally: food and drink): dinner here costs ISK 14,900 ($106), and for specially selected wine you’ll pay extra ISK 10,900 ($78).
Sample prices at good restaurants in Iceland
- Alpine trout with fennel and citrus salad (appetizer): $20 (2850 ISK);
- reindeer sausage with potato salad and horseradish mayonnaise: $22.50 (3150 ISK);
- crawfish soup with coconut milk and tangerines: $23 (3200 ISK);
- grilled maskonur breast with malt sauce: $35 (4950 ISK);
- mountain lamb with grilled mushrooms, pickled beet, etc.: $42 (5900 ISK);
- tenderloin steak with asahi chips and smoked chili bearnaise: $46 (6490 ISK);
- crawfish tails with coconut, garlic and pineapple: $70 (9900 ISK);
- blueberry ice cream with chocolate, berries and blueberries: $15 (2150 ISK);
- set: appetizer: smoked maskonur; main course: whale steak; dessert: skyr: $46.50 (6500 ISK);
- tasting menu (min. 2 persons): $85 (11,900 ISK) per person;
