Kerlingarfjoll (Kerlingarfjöll) is a real gem for all nature and outdoor enthusiasts.
Colorful steaming mountains
Kerlingarfjoll is a beautiful, extremely colorful mountain range (of volcanic origin, naturally), not far from the F35 road in the Icelandic highlands. Between the fabulously colorful mountains here flow hot streams with temperatures of over 100 °C (212°F), shrouding the entire area in thick clouds of steam. At the same time, you hear constant hissing, bubbling and boiling from the many fumaroles and mud springs. Even a short walk in the Hveradalir Valley leaves wonderful memories for a lifetime.
Map of Kerlingarfjoll region
Unfortunately, many online sources use the Kerlingarfjoll place names inaccurately, to say the least. So let’s clarify them using the map above:
- the entire region is called Kerlingarfjoll (Kerlingarfjöll);
- The region’s main refuge name is Asgardur (Ásgarður), although the name Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort is often used;
- The most accessible geothermal area (boiling mud, streams and smoky mountains) is Hveradalir;
- Some 40 km (25 mi) further north on road 35 lies Hveravellir. Despite the similar name, it’s a completely different place (but also worth visiting).
- The hottest geothermal area, the one where water temperatures as high as 150 °C (302°F) have been measured, is Hverabotn;
- As of 2024 there are high-quality hot pools in the hotel, but there is still also a wild hot bath about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) up the valley.
Hiking trails are marked in red on the map above, and the main access road (F347) in blue.
Video: The colorful, boiling mountains of Kerlingarfjoll.
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The picturesque geothermal area of Hveradalir
The heart and most popular attraction of the Kerlingarfjoll area is the Hveradalir geothermal area. From the Asgardur hut, Hveradalir can be reached by a short and comfortable, but nevertheless quite steep road (4×4!).
The uniqueness of Hveradalir is primarily due to its geology and picturesque surroundings. The area is surrounded by rhyolite mountains, so the surroundings are spectacularly colorful and look like another world. Perhaps it is even more colorful here than in the famous Rainbow Mountains in Landmannalaugar.
The mystical atmosphere of Hveradalir is complemented by bubbling springs, steaming rivers, volcanic smoke rising directly from the mountainsides, snow-capped mountain peaks and luscious green moss covering the brown ground. This is one of the few places that truly take your breath away…
The area is well maintained and rich with safe, well-marked walking trails and viewpoints. All of the main hot springs are accessible by stairs.
Kerlingarfjoll Hostel and Campsite (Asgardur)
The local hostel and campsite is the starting point for exploring the entire Kerlingarfjoll area. It is often referred to as the Kerlingarfjoll hostel and campsite (e.g., on maps.com), although it would be more correct to use the name Asgardur. At the same time, Google Maps describes them as ‘Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort’.
Since the 2024 season, both the hostel and the campsite have been operating in a completely new form. The hostel has basically become a rather luxurious hotel, and the campsite has gained a modern kitchen and sanitary facilities building as well as beautiful, well-kept greenery. The kitchen, which is rather rare in Icelandic campsites, has sinks, small stoves, microwaves, plenty of dishes and cutlery, and several tables in the dining area. It is currently probably the best campsite in all of Iceland.
Unfortunately, this means that not only hotel rooms but also camping spots must be booked in advance. For a long time it was practically the only campsite of its kind in Iceland (as of 2026, the Landmannalaugar campsite also requires booking). Camping spots can only be booked through the Parka app. It is worth doing so because the spots are very well maintained and, at the same time, very few in number.
Kerlingarfjoll pools and spa
Hot baths have always been an attraction of Kerlingarfjoll/Asgardur. However, until recently, we only had a small, wild spring about 1.5 km away at our disposal. It was a very atmospheric place, but in bad weather, the whole trip to the baths was not very relaxing.
This wild spring still exists, but since 2024, we can also enjoy a modern, yet intimate, pool complex in the main hotel building.
There are three small pools, a sauna, a cold plunge pool and a pool bar. The whole place is really intimate and kept in a very natural style. The pools are built into a natural mountainside, surrounded by beautiful boulders, and offer beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.
Hotel guests have access to the pools 1 hour earlier (and can leave 1 hour later), but during the day the pools are open to everyone. However, the pools are really tiny, so it is worth booking as early as possible: tickets to the Kerlingarfjoll pools.
Genesis of the Kerlingarfjoll mountains
Kerlingarfjoll is a young volcanic range, formed of rhyolite rocks and dark and light volcanic ash rocks. Due to its structure, majestic and extremely colorful landscape, and high geothermal energy, the area has a very high natural value. The peaks here are adorned by several small glaciers, and the mountains constantly change colors depending on the light, season and time of day. The highest peaks in the area rise to 1,477 m (4,846 ft) above sea level, so the views can be truly magnificent. The Kisa and Asgardsa (Ásgarðsa) rivers flow between the mountains, dividing the range into two parts: east and west.
Vegetation in the area is rather sparse and rare. Only the hardiest heat-loving plants, mosses and lichens survive here, such as jointleaf rush (Juncus articulatus), the liverwort Gymnocolea inflata and the lichens Umbilicaria vellea and Thrombium epigaeum.
Kerlingarfjoll – tips and practical information
- The season here lasts from mid-June to early September;
- The Ásgarður Mountain Resort (labeled ‘Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort’ on Google maps) is operated in the Kerlingarfjoll area, providing dining, accommodation and camping services;
- From Ásgarður, it’s easy to get by car (4×4!) to a parking lot in the Hveradalir valley, where you can stroll the colorful hills between boiling streams.
- There are also two hiking trails in the surrounding mountains, the longer one being as long as 47 km (29 mi) and designed for a 3-day hike with overnight stays at the Kisubotnar and Klakkur mountain huts. The shorter one involves 2 days of walking, with an overnight stay in Kisubotnar.
- In Kerlingarfjöll you can also experience swimming in an outdoor pool, which, however, is about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) upstream from the Ásgarður hut and campsite.
- The strongest hot spring is located at Hverabotn, the place with the highest geothermal surface temperature measured in Iceland (about 150 °C / 302°F – yes, that’s no typo!). The hot spring is surrounded by unique vegetation, including geothermal mosses and lichens, which have a high protective value.
- Because of the unique nature of the area, we walk here only on designated paths.
How to get to Kerlingarfjoll
To get to Kerlingarfjoll, take Route 35 (Kjalvegur, F35 on Google maps) and then turn east on F347. The intersections and roads are brilliantly marked – it’s impossible to get lost here – but this road usually doesn’t open until early June and may already be closed around September 20 due to snow. If you want to get here in spring or autumn, check the road condition on road.is, but from October to May, 99% of the roads will be closed.
Map: driving route to Kerlingarfjoll — click to open the interactive map
Kerlingarfjoll, and even more so Hveradalir, will be difficult to reach with a car that does not have 4×4. The photos in the gallery above show that it can be done, but insurance and car rental companies usually forbid driving non-4×4 vehicles on mountain roads. Kjalvegur “lost” the status of a mountain road (F) and is officially an ordinary road 35, but check with your rental company to see how they approach this.
In addition, the F347 road connecting Route 35 to the Asgardur hut is already a mountain road for sure. You only have to drive about 10 km (6 mi) on it, and it’s not very steep, and there are no fords across streams on it, but still, for an ordinary car it’s certainly a challenge. Without four-wheel drive, I would rather not recommend it.
For 4×4 cars, on the other hand, getting here (in summer!) poses absolutely no challenge, although the road is gravel and at times quite steep.
In the past, you could also get here by the SBA 610 bus running between Reykjavik and Akureyri over the Kjölur route, but this bus no longer runs.