W
estman Islands hosts the largest Atlantic colony of puffins in the world. Potentially, it’s even a better place to see them than the famous Latrabjarg Cliffs on the West Fjords peninsula
The Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) are a beautiful archipelago located 9 km off the southern coast of Iceland, about 100 km southeast of Reykjavik and 60 km west of Vik. See how to get there, what to see and how to visit them in 1-2 days.
Scenic landscapes and wildlife observers’ paradise
The Westman Islands are picturesque islets with a rich history, unique landscape and warm and welcoming locals. It’s a great destination for those who want to see the beauty of Iceland without the ubiquitous tourist crowds. Full of peace and tranquility, Iceland’s wildlife impresses with picturesque views, still relatively free from human interference.
The archipelago consists of 15 islands and 30 lonely cliffs and rocks. The largest of them, Heimaey, is home to about 4,300 people. Interestingly, the newest of the islands was formed in the ’60s, so on the geological scale it is an absolute newborn. Such a young landform (further enhanced by volcanic cones) makes for a wonderful photographic setting with a thousand faces!
W
estman Islands hosts the largest Atlantic colony of puffins in the world. Potentially, it’s even a better place to see them than the famous Latrabjarg Cliffs on the West Fjords peninsula
The islands are home to some 150 species of plants and about 80 kinds of insects. More than 30 species of birds also nest on the steep slopes of the cliffs. The most famous, which is also the symbol of Iceland, are the mascons. Westmans is the world’s largest habitat for these birds. In addition to the maskonurs, on the island you will meet, among others: common murres, moruses, three-toed gulls or polar gulls. The waters around Vestmannaeyjar are some of the richest fishing grounds in the North Atlantic. They are especially home to cod, haddock, flatfish, herring, lobster and ocean perch. Seals and small whales are a common sight in the Westman area.
T
he best chance of encountering puffins on the Westmans is in summer – from early June to late August. When photographing the birds, however, use extreme caution. Many cliffs have no protection or guardrails – don’t walk on them while looking through your camera lens!
Vestmannaeyjar in 1 to 2 days plan
The island of Heimaey is not large and most of the attractions are within walking distance of the port, and the whole town is also rather small (about 2 x 2 km). Therefore, 1 day is completely sufficient to explore the archipelago. However, due to the need for a ferry crossing, it will be most convenient to spread the trip over 2 days – arrive in the middle of one day, spend the night here and return to the main island in the morning or in the middle of the next day.
N
he most ‘rigid’ part of visiting the archipelago is a cruise around Heimaey Island. Therefore, it is good to arrange the whole plan just “around” such a cruise, and they usually start in the early afternoon.
1-day trip plan to the Vestmannaeyjar islands
The best plan for touring Vestmannaeyjar in 1 day is as follows:
10:45 – 11:30: ferry crossing to Heimaey Island
11:30 – 12:00: walk to Skansinn and Stafkirkjan (about 15′ walk from the port)
12:00 – 13:30: walk and visit to Eldheimar museum (about 20′ walk from Skansinn and about 1h in the museum)
13:30 – 14:00: lunch in the port or town center
14:30 – 16:00: cruise around the island (usually there are no morning or evening cruises)
16:00 – 19:00: ascent of Eldborg, possibly also neighboring Helgafell
I suggest spending the evening walking around the town and visiting the Brothers Brewery.
You can return to the main island by ferry the same day at 10:00 pm (or even at 7:00 pm). However, it is much better to stay on the island overnight and return to the main island the following morning – by ferry at 7:00, 9:30 or 12:00.
If you want to “squeeze” the maximum out of this trip, try to still go to Stórhöfði (the southern tip of the main island) in the evening – or in the morning. It’s there that you’ll see the largest flocks of birds, and along the way you’ll have perhaps the most beautiful views of the town and volcano towering over it.
Vestmannaeyjar on foot or by bicycle
If you cross to Vestmannaeyjar with your car, you are unlikely to have a dilemma about how to get around the island. Your own car is, of course, very convenient, but you won’t drive around much. From the ferry landing on the north shore of the island, to the very southern tip of the island is only about 6 km, so you will get there in 10-15 minutes.
Therefore, a very cool solution is to leave your car on the shore, on the main island of Iceland. Right at the port of Landeyjahöfn there is a large public parking lot, where you can comfortably leave any size car. You will save money on the crossing itself, and the island itself can be mostly comfortably circumnavigated on foot, and in further corners, if necessary, go by bike or scooter.
The aforementioned southern tip of the island can be safely given up, and the walk through town to the main attraction – Eldfell volcano – is only about 2 km. Walking – or cycling – you will certainly get more in touch with the atmosphere of the island and easily stop at any attraction you encounter.
T
aking a car to Heimaey is a waste of time and money. In addition, a car-crossing ticket needs to be booked well in advance. Therefore, it is better to leave the car on the main island, and explore Haimaey itself on foot or by bicycle. Or better still – take a RIB tour around it 🙂
For more information on bicycle rental options, see, for example, https://visitwestmanislands.com/tours/rent-a-bike/
Where to sleep on Vestmannaeyjar
If you manage to ‘catch’ one of the morning ferries, you will freely explore Vestmannaeyjar in 1 day. However, if you want to cruise around the island (it’s definitely worth it), experience the sunrise and sunset on the island, and finally see how the tiny island settlement functions in the evening and at night, a great option is to stay overnight on the island and return to the mainland of Iceland the next day.
There are two hotels on Vestmannaeyjar: Hotel Vestmannaeyjar and The New Post Office.
There are also hostels – like the Puffin Nest Capsule Hostel (likely the top choice for backpackers) – and guesthouses – such as the Pier Apartments (right at the harbour), Guesthouse Sunnuholl or Lava Guesthouse.
If you’re looking for top quality and something away from the town’s hustle and bustle (perhaps to wake up early for some extra birdwatching?), you might opt for the Ocean Villas.
Finally, if you’re looking to save money, you can also stay overnight at a campground, especially if you’re traveling in an RV or campervan. The Þórsvöllur Camping Ground offers overnight camping and additional amenities: showers, washers and bathroom dryers, cooking stations with coffee makers, toasters, microwaves, etc. There is electricity and running water. Herjólfsdalur Campground is fabulously located in Herjólf’s secluded valley. Guests can enjoy showers, bathrooms, a washer and dryer, a kitchen station, electricity and a children’s playground.
Guided tours to Vestmannaeyjar
It is always the best thing to plan your self drive so, that you can spend the night on the island. When most of the tourists leave and it gets quiet – you’ll see a very different face of the town.
If however, you prefer to do just a day trip and preferably a guided one, there’s a broad selections of tours for you:
- Volcanic Westman Islands Tour | Small group; tour starts in Reykjavik, costs $360 pp, but 4 people minimum required;
- Vestmannaeyjar – The Westman Islands; tour starts at Gljúfrabúi (near Seljalandsfoss), surcharges for pick-up/drop-off elsewhere, $430 pp, RIB safari included;
- Private Tour Premium Minibus ; pick-up/drop-off at Reykjavik hotel, $910 per party of max. 6;
Attractions of Vestmannaeyjar – things to see
The Vestmannaeyjar archipelago is explored exclusively by cruising to and around the main island – Heimaey – and seeing some of the interesting sights in the town on that very island. The attractions of Vestmannaeyjar are primarily related to its remarkable nature (including the main volcano – Eldfell) and, to a lesser extent, to the islands’ history. However, it is a very charming place and abounds in beautiful views. Therefore, it is worth setting aside a day to visit this very young archipelago.
Here are the highlights on Heimaey and Vestmannaeyjar:
- Eldfell Crater
Eldfell Crater is the result of a 1973 volcanic eruption. It is just over 200 meters high, but offers a picturesque view of the surrounding area from its summit. The ascent is not particularly demanding, although a bit steep in places. The average hiking time one way is, depending on your fitness, between 20 and 40 minutes. The undoubted beauty of the volcano is that it lies almost in the heart of the town… - Eldheimar Museum
Also known as the Fire Museum, the Lava Museum or the Volcano Museum, it introduces visitors to the historic 1973 eruption of Eldfell Volcano. A visit to the museum is a great opportunity to go back in time and learn about the details of this dramatic event. One of the most interesting parts of the exhibition is the home of Gerður Sigurðardóttir and Guðni Ólafsson and their 3 young children. The family had to leave the place in the middle of the night, taking with them only a bottle for their then several-week-old toddler. A visit to the museum takes about 60 minutes, and opening hours depend on the season (in summer it’s usually 9am-5pm). Read more: http://eldheimar.is - Skansinn and Stavkirkjan
Skansinn is a small street near the port, passing through the oldest part of the buildings. It was here that a fort built to defend the port was located in the 15th century. Its walls were swallowed up by lava in 1973, but some of them managed to rebuild. Above the walls are the remains of old water tanks, which were also destroyed by lava.On the same street you will also find the Stavkirkjan (or Stafkirkjan) Church. This is an interesting building donated to Iceland by Norway. Built in 2000, it commemorates the 1000th anniversary of Iceland’s conversion to Christianity. It is a replica of the first church in Vestmannaeyjar. Carefully selected wood species were used in its construction, and each board is said to have been worked by hand.
- Sæheimar Aquarium (Sea Life Trust Beluga Whale Sanctuary)
Sæheimar is the oldest aquarium in Iceland. Created in cooperation with Whale and Dolphin Conservation (WDC), it is one of the greatest achievements in the care and conservation of whales and dolphins. The aquarium is also caring for two belugas that arrived here in 2019 from China. After spending almost their entire lives in one of China’s small aquariums, the belugas are unfit to live in the wild. However, in Klettsvík Bay, they have plenty of space to live and spend their ‘retirement’ in conditions as close to natural as possible. The Visitors’ Center, is located in the harbor. You can read more about this facility here: Admission: Puffin Rescue & Aquarium. - Sea tours
The Westman Islands are incredibly beautiful from the sea. The mighty cliffs, caves, unique rock formations and the tiny icelands are all truly impressive. Also, the huge colonies of nesting birds here are best viewed just from the sea. In addition, during such a cruise there is also a real chance to see the cetaceans that live in these waters. Common fins, dwarf fins and humpback whales can be seen primarily in summer, orcas – all year round. The best way to see the archipelago inside out is to go for a RIB tour. Here’s the top pick for that: Two Hour Ribsafari Adventure Trip. - Stórhöfði
Stórhöfði is the southernmost point of Heimaey. If you couldn’t get enough wind during your stay in Iceland, it is also… the windiest place on the island, and perhaps even in Europe. The wind recorded at Stórhöfði is matched only by those in Antarctica. - The Brothers Brewery (The Brothers Brewery)
Not everyone knows that Westmans is home to a small craft brewery – The Brothers Brewery. Founded by brothers, it unexpectedly won the award for best beer of the year at the Hólar beer festival. You can go to the brewery for a tasting, for example. You can find the brewery’s website here: The Brothers Brewery. - Sprangan
Sprangan is where Westman residents learn to… climb cliffs. This is because such a skill is essential for collecting sea bird eggs. As is not hard to guess, such an activity without proper training could end in serious damage to one’s health or even death. Activities at Sprangan take place during the summer and are also open to tourists. On site, you can also admire the extraordinary skills of specialists when swinging, doing turns or twists.
History of Westman
The first mention of the Vestmannaeyjar islands can be found in Landnáma, a medieval Icelandic work depicting the time of settlement in Iceland. Landnáma tells the story of Ingólfur Arnarson, the first Icelandic settler, and his adoptive brother Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson. When Hjörleifur died at the hands of the slaves, the slaves, fearing the consequences of their deed, fled to nearby islands. Unfortunately, in this way they did not protect themselves from Landnám’s wrath. The historical warrior captured and killed them. Due to the fact that the slaves originated from Ireland, they were known as West Men. It was they who gave the name to the archipelago to which they fled…. To this day, many places on the Westmen bear names that recall these events of centuries ago.
Geologically, the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago is very young. Located in the South Icelandic Volcanic Zone, it was formed by eruptions over the last 10,000 to 12,000 years. The oldest geological formations are located in the northern part of Heimaey. The youngest island, Surtsey, lies at the southwestern end of the archipelago.
T
he core of the archipelago is Surtsey. It is the youngest island – it was formed during a volcanic eruption in 1963-67. Due to its unusual nature, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is almost completely free of human interference. It can only be accessed by authorized scientists who monitor and study its condition.
All of Vestmannaeyja consists of alternating layers of palagonitic tuff and lava, and the archipelago’s distinctive features include basalt columns and sea-hollowed out picturesque coves and caves, which are among the special features of the islands. The area is very volcanically active, as is the rest of Iceland.
Eruptions of volcanoes on Westmans
The largest volcano in the Westmans is Eldfell. It was due to an eruption from its underground system that gave rise to the archipelago’s youngest island, Surtsey. However, the most recent eruption took place about 10 years later – in 1973 – and was much shorter, lasting ‘only’ 5 months.
Without a doubt, it was one of the biggest natural disasters in Iceland in the 20th century. Lava and ash destroyed nearly 400 homes – one-third of all buildings on the island of Heimaey. All residents then had to temporarily relocate to the mainland. Fortunately, with the help of other Icelanders and foreigners, they were able to repair the damage and return to their beloved place.
A
bit of luck for the whole island was the bad weather prevailing on the eve of the eruption. Thanks to it, all of the island’s fishing boats stayed in port that day and were able to quickly evacuate residents to Iceland’s main island at the time of the eruption.
All islands of the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago
The largest and only inhabited island in the archipelago is Heimaey. It extends over an area of 13.4 km2 and has a population of about 4,300. Most of them live in the archipelago’s main town, Vestmannaeyjabær. The island is surrounded by steep, moss-covered cliffs, contrasting strongly with the charming and brightly colored roofs of the houses. This provides a lot of very pleasing to the eye.
Islands of the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago; compiled by. own.
© Based on data from National Land Survey of Iceland
- Surtsey (1.4 km2)
- Elliðaey (0.45 km2)
- Bjarnarey (0.32 km2)
- Álsey (0.25 km2)
- Suðurey (0.2 km2)
- Brandur (0.1 km2)
- Hellisey (0.1 km2)
- Súlnasker (0.03 km2)
- Geldungur (0.02 km2)
- Geirfuglasker (0.02 km2)
- Smaller Islands (Smáeyjar) – Hani, Hæna, Hrauney, Grasleysa and some even smaller ones (total: 16.3 km2)
I
celanders from the mainland often refer to Heimaey residents as islanders. If you come across such a term, you already know who they are referring to.
How to get to and around the Vestman Islands
If you want to get to the Westmans, there are two ways to do it – by ferry or by local airline plane.
Planes to the island depart from Reykjavik’s domestic airport, with flights operated by Eagle Air Iceland. The trip takes only 20 minutes and the ticket costs about €100 one way.
B
oth ferry and air connections between the Westmans and the mainland – especially outside the summer season – can be unpredictable, due to capricious weather. If you’re planning to visit the islands, don’t save your trip for the last days of your stay in Iceland. If your plane or ferry is canceled due to poor weather, you will eat up stress. And, after all, it’s not enough to get to the island – you also have to return from it…
Ferries from Landeyjahöfn
Landeyjahöfn is a port on the south coast of Iceland, about 130 km from Reykjavik and 60 km from Vik. It can be reached by road 254, departing from the main ‘one’ across the bridge at Seljalandsfoss. It is from here that ferries depart for Heimaey. In poor weather conditions, especially between November and March, they can depart from Þorlákshöfn.
The trip takes about 35-40 minutes. If you plan to sail along with your car, camper or unicycle, be sure to reserve a seat in advance.
Usually ferries run several times a day.
- From Landeyjahöfn to Vestmannaeyjar at 8:15 a.m., 10:45 a.m., 1:15 p.m., 3:45 p.m., 6:15 p.m., 8:45 p.m. and 11:15 p.m.
- From Vestmannaeyjar to Landeyjahöfn at 7:00, 9:30, 12:00, 17:00, 19:30 and 22:00.
Ferry ticket prices depend on whether you are traveling alone or taking your own transportation as well.
Ticket prices (one way):
adult (16 years and older) – 1600 ISK ($11.50);
youth (12-15 years old) – 800 ISK ($5.75);
senior citizens, people with disabilities, students – 800 ISK ($5.75);
children under 12 yrs. – free of charge;
motorcycle – 1600 ISK ($11.50);
bicycle – 250 ISK ($2);
car shorter than 5 m / 16.5 ft (most rental cars will be in this category) – 2,300 ISK ($16.50);
car longer than 5 m – 3,000 ISK ($21.50);
car with trailer (length 6-10 m) – 4600 ISK ($33);
car with a trailer. (length 10-16 m) – 6000 ISK ($43).
To avoid unpleasant surprises, buy your ferry ticket in advance. Especially if you are traveling in the summer. Already have a ticket? Arrive in Landeyjahöfn at least 30 minutes before the ferry starts.
